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A Little Cleanup Goes a Long Way


If you work with stained glass, your grinder is probably one of the hardest-working tools in your studio. And like any hardworking tool, it needs a little attention every now and then to keep it running smoothly.


Stained glass grinders use a water-cooled, diamond-coated bit to shape and smooth the edges of glass. As you grind, fine glass dust collects in the water reservoir and eventually turns into a paste-like buildup. Over time, that buildup can interfere with water getting from the reservoir to the grinder bit and can slow down your grinder.


There are lots of grinder brands out there, but for this post, I’m using my Inland grinder to walk you through my routine maintenance. Because my grinder sometimes runs for hours a day, I clean mine more frequently than most hobbyists will need to.


Start With the Sponge

The sponge that feeds water to the grinder bit is probably the part you’ll need to clean most often.


One of the first signs that it needs some attention is a pasty buildup of ground glass showing up on the surface of your grinder while you work. When you notice this, remove the sponge, give it a good rinse or wash, and put it back in place.


Make sure the sponge is positioned so that it’s in direct contact with the grinder bit. This allows it to properly carry water from the reservoir to the bit.


If cleaning the sponge doesn’t solve the problem, it may be time to take a look underneath

The sponge that feeds water to the bit probably needs cleaning the most
The sponge that feeds water to the bit probably needs cleaning the most

Cleaning the Water Reservoir

Remove the grated cover over the reservoir and rinse it thoroughly with water. I like to use a brush to get any remaining glass residue out of the holes. You’ll also want to clean the ring that holds the sponge against the bit.


Once the cover is off, you’ll probably see exactly where all that glass dust has been going!

The glass paste that collects in the reservoir can be scraped out with a small, flat-edged tool, such as a putty knife. Dispose of the residue in the trash.


If everything else looks good, you can put the cover and sponge back in place, top off the water reservoir, and get back to grinding.

  In these pictures you can see the accumulation of glass paste in the reservoir.  This paste can be removed by using a small flat edged tool, like a putty knife.
  In these pictures you can see the accumulation of glass paste in the reservoir.  This paste can be removed by using a small flat edged tool, like a putty knife.
The reservoir base easily lifts off the grinder once the bit is removed.  The base can be washed/rinsed thoroughly to remove excess grinder residue.
The reservoir base easily lifts off the grinder once the bit is removed.  The base can be washed/rinsed thoroughly to remove excess grinder residue.

When It’s Time for a Deeper Clean

If it’s been a while since your grinder has had some attention, or you have quite a bit of buildup, it may be time for a more thorough cleaning.


After removing the majority of the glass residue, remove the grinder bit. On my Inland grinder, once the bit is removed, the reservoir base easily lifts away from the grinder.


This gives you a chance to thoroughly rinse and clean the reservoir base, wipe down the motor base, and clean all those surrounding areas where glass residue tends to find its way.


Once everything is clean, simply reverse the process to put your grinder back together.

Before replacing the bit, wipe the spindle clean and apply a small amount of grease or lubricant. This can help prevent the grinder bit from seizing onto the spindle and becoming difficult to remove later.


And don’t forget to refill your water reservoir before you start grinding again!


The spindle which holds the grinder bit should be wiped clean and a small amount of grease/lubricant should be spread on the spindle before the bit is replaced.  This will help to ensure the bit doesn’t seize onto the spindle and make it difficult to remove.
The spindle which holds the grinder bit should be wiped clean and a small amount of grease/lubricant should be spread on the spindle before the bit is replaced.  This will help to ensure the bit doesn’t seize onto the spindle and make it difficult to remove.

A Few Things to Keep an Eye On


Between deeper cleanings, a few simple checks can help keep your grinder working the way it should:


  • Check the water level regularly to make sure the bit is getting enough water.

  • Keep the sponge clean and positioned directly against the grinder bit.

  • Remove glass residue that builds up around the base of the bit spindle so it doesn’t interfere with the sponge’s ability to pick up water.

  • Give your grinder a more thorough cleaning whenever you notice significant buildup.

How often you need to do all of this really depends on how much you use your grinder. If you’re only working on stained glass occasionally, you probably won’t need to clean yours nearly as often as we do here in the studio.


The important thing is to pay attention to how your grinder is working. A little routine maintenance can keep things running smoothly and get you back to the fun part: making stained glass.

 
 
 

Last month, we explored how Stepping Out began, from the original concept and full-size pattern to selecting, cutting, and fitting hundreds of individual pieces of glass.

Now it's time for those pieces to finally come together.


The Puzzle Comes Together

Once every piece has been cut and carefully ground for a perfect fit, the panel begins taking shape on the workbench.


This stage is a bit like assembling a giant puzzle. Every piece has already been individually fitted, but seeing the full design come together for the first time is always exciting.

Wrapping Every Piece


Before the panel can be soldered, every single piece of glass is wrapped by hand with copper foil.


This thin strip of copper creates the surface the solder will bond to, and it's one of the most time-consuming steps in the process. With hundreds of individual pieces, it requires patience, consistency, and attention to detail.






The First Lift

After everything has been foiled and checked one final time, soldering begins.

Molten solder is applied to each seam, permanently joining every piece together. Once the first side is complete, the panel is carefully lifted from the work surface for the very first time.


It's one of our favorite moments in the studio. After spending weeks working flat on the bench, you finally get to see the piece standing on its own.


The Finishing Touches


The second side is soldered before the zinc border is added to strengthen and finish the panel. For Stepping Out, clear architectural glass was incorporated into the final design, adding texture and depth while beautifully framing the artwork.


More Than Glass

When people admire a finished stained glass panel, they often see the colors, textures, and design.


What they don't always see are the hours of planning, the careful glass selection, hundreds of precise cuts, endless fitting and grinding, meticulous foiling, and the craftsmanship required to bring every piece together. That's what makes handcrafted stained glass so special.


We hope you've enjoyed following the journey of Stepping Out from its very first sketch to the finished panel. Thank you for joining us behind the scenes at Glass Dragon Studio.


We look forward to sharing the next project with you!



 
 
 

One of the questions we hear most often is, "How long does it take to make a stained glass panel?"


The short answer? Quite a while.


The better answer is that every finished piece begins long before the first piece of glass is ever cut.


Over the next two months, we're taking you behind the scenes as we build one of our newest custom panels, Stepping Out. Rather than only showing you the finished piece, we wanted to share everything that happens along the way.


The completed panel measures 28 × 36 inches and is made from approximately 320 individually cut pieces of glass. It requires hundreds of dollars in materials and more than 180 hours of craftsmanship, so none of that happens overnight.


Every Piece Starts with an Idea

The first step is developing the concept.

Using inspiration images and sketches, we begin creating the overall look and feel of the panel before committing anything to glass. Once the design starts taking shape, it's drawn full size, creating what's known as the cartoon. This becomes the roadmap for everything that follows.

Even at this stage, the design continues to evolve as details are refined and adjusted.


Concept collage
Concept collage
Full-size cartoon
Full-size cartoon

Choosing the Glass

This is one of our favorite parts of the process.

Selecting glass isn't simply choosing colors. Every sheet has its own texture, movement, transparency, and personality. Finding just the right combination is what gives a stained glass piece depth and life.

Sometimes a single sheet of glass completely changes the direction of a design.


Exploring color combinations and refining the design.
Exploring color combinations and refining the design.



From Paper to Glass

Once the design is finalized, every pattern piece is individually numbered and becomes its own cutting template.

Each piece is traced onto glass, cut by hand, and then carefully ground until it fits perfectly with its neighboring pieces. This stage takes patience, precision, and lots of test fitting before anything can be assembled.

By the end of this stage, hundreds of individual pieces are ready for the next step.

Every piece is numbered to create cutting templates
Every piece is numbered to create cutting templates

Coming Next Month

In August, we'll continue the journey as Stepping Out begins to come together. We'll show you how every piece is wrapped in copper foil, soldered together, framed, and transformed into the finished panel.

We hope you'll join us for Part 2.



 
 
 

© Glass Dragon Studio 2026

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